 Marcelo Sola  Jorge González
Leaving from the City of Salta, visitors may tour around one of the most impressive circuits in the Republic of Argentina as they visit the legendary Calchaquí Valleys through a road that leads to amazement without rest. |
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In order to visit the Calchaquí Valleys and appreciate their beautiful sceneries and the quaint villages from the early XVIII century nestled in their geography, visitors must travel a total distance of 520 kilometers through three main roads, namely Provincial Route 33 and National Routes 40 and 68.
From the very beginning, fascination takes hold of travelers as they enter the San Fernando de Escoipe Ravine. Surrounded by mountains and bordered by Provincial Route 33, it sets the start of adventure.
The local vegetation is typical of the montane rain forest, with the presence of hydrophile and xerofile plants. Ancient laurels, willows, walnuts, peachtrees, poplars and some conifers are always present in the area.
From the vehicle, visitors may see terraces or platforms planted with corn, oats, peas or beans on the slopes of the hills located to both sides of the road. |
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The dirt road is crossed by meltdown spring creeks on their way down from the heights, but they do not represent any kind of obstacle for travelers. The Agua Negra Ravine and the Malcante River escort visitors on this stage of the tour.
At the end of the Escoipe Ravine, the winding “Cuesta del Obispo” (Bishop's Slope) begins. It got its name from Monsignor Cortázar, the maximum ecclesiastical authority in Salta, who was traveling from Salta to Cachi back in 1622 and spent the night at this spot lying at 3,400 m.a.s.l.
At the top of the slope, known as “Piedra del Molino” (Millstone), lies a chapel raised to honor the Archangel Raphael, "Patron Saint of Travelers”. This spot features an unforgettable view of the endless slope, which gets mingled with the granite formation of feldspar, mica and quartz contained in the area. |
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Driving on, there appears a place which faithfully honors its name: the "Enchanted Valley", a dreamed-of place with red soil and green grass where the huge rocks and the uneven terrain astonish the most daring visitors, who are used to being delighted by natural wonders.
Heading for Los Cardones National Park
After resting the sight on such natural masterpiece, travelers begin their way down a depression of the heights. The road leads to Cachi Pampa – "salt pampa” in the Cacán tongue. |
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After a few kilometers, the Tin Tin Straight is entered. Fully paved, this 12-kilometer-long stretch displays the impressive snow-capped Curacatao summits in the distance. The tour always features the characteristics of the scenery, totally worth beholding.
Los Cardones National Park welcomes and amazes visitors with the thousands of cardons it contains. Laid out as mastic trees all around the land, this place becomes almost incomprehensible. It is admirable to watch the various shapes acquired by the cactus pasacana. Some specimens can reach up to 6 meters of height and, bearing in mind that they grow 5 cm per year, it is easy to guess their age.
The area where the cardons are located features an alternative Andean basalt relief exposed to a metamorphic action as a consequence of temperature extremes -0º thru 35º C. As a result, the soil appears to be cracked. Plants such as black jarillas with yellow cholongas are the only company of cardons before the desolate landscape. |
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Cachi: “Town of Salt”
The Tin Tin Straight bends frantically to the left. The elevations known as “Cumbres del Libertador” (The Liberator's Summits) and “Nevado de Cachi” (Cachi Snowcapped Mountains) -reaching 6720 m.a.s.l- are observed in the background. Thus, visitors find themselves in the Calchaquí Valleys strictly speaking, once crossed by Inca Atahualpa, Juan Calchaquí, and Spaniards such as Don Diego de Almagro in 1536. That is an exciting moment. Going past Payogasta, the road gets to enigmatic and historical Route 40, one of the most exceptional roads in Argentina. To both sides, the silent Calchaquí Valleys seem to observe the audacious expedition members.
After a few kilometers, the town of Cachi opens its gates to show its simple beauty. It is a good moment to make a stop, rest for a while and tour around the purely colonial district.
Cachi means “salt” in the Quechua or Cacán tongue, and it was given such a name by the local natives, who had mistaken the summit of Nevado for a big salt deposit. When touring around the village, visitors can appreciate the politeness of the people, who appear to be in tune with the architectural surroundings. |
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