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That is the name given to the museum-restaurant which, in addition to offering excellent home made cuisine, rescues the memories and customs of this northern town.
Around one corner in Cachi, we came by a sign that read: “El Aujero restaurant and regional antiques museum”. Curiosity and the proximity of noon invited us to have lunch. With a strong character but cozy, the atmosphere looks very much like its owner, Jorge Figueroa, who welcomed us from behind the counter and soon joined us at a table to have a chat. Born in Chaco, he spent his childhood in the city of Salta but, as he defines himself, he is too “coya” (native from the puna) for the city.
While we were waiting for the goat grilled in the clay oven and the stuffed red peppers we had chosen among the charquesillo and other specialties of the house, Figueroa told us the history of the place, very much related to the history of the people.
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Back in the 1970s, that chamfer was occupied by a small house, 2 and a half meters wide and 7 meters long with a low cardon door, where a young teacher used to live. In the evenings, men would gather in the small room to play guitar until late hours and women would say their husbands were “in the hole” (agujero, or in slang: aujero).
Thus, this corner became part of everyday life in Cachi. Just like the story of “Peras Hervidas” (boiled pears) a character from the town who used to live near the La Paya ruins and spend three days and three nights walking by its donkey in order to get to the Miracle Festival, celebrated in the city of Salta, where he would sell some hard parboiled pears.
Tasting of What is Ours
“A large part of our problem is that we are ignorant of our past”, sentenced Jorge. And for such reason, he had thought of the museum, in principle, as an example for the kids. He spent most of his 42 years of age collecting and repairing objects, from saddles and iron fittings to old radios and china sets, everything from Cachi, except for a telephone and a TV set from the 1950s turned into a fish bowl.
Nowadays, the local customs are trapped inside the walls of this restaurant, meeting point for locals and visitors.
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Still amazed, Jorge tells us that some 3 or 4 years ago, tourism boomed in those areas and the change is a true shock for the town even today. As an example, as we were tasting our dishes, some contingents willing to taste the El Aujero cuisine came in. They had made a good choice: a taste of the home-made in the best fruit of the northern land is rescued with delicious simplicity.
The exquisite peppers were followed by cheese with cayote jam and nuts to accompany the after-lunch table, in addition to the anecdotes that Jorge would weave one after the other. Among them, Juan Rojas’, native gaucho from Cachi and referent of Salta, whose portrait is escorted by national flags.
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As commented by Figueroa, the past of this town which was never founded, joins the history of the agricultural-cattle-raising fiefs which up to this date have set their stamp like in the lands of the Palermo estate. But beyond the colonial times, the indigenous period strongly prevails in this region well known by its archeological richness. This motivated Jorge and Antonio Mercado (director of the Archeological Museum of Cachi) to build a theme park under the same premise as the museum of regional antiques: to spread the customs and habits of the cultures dwelling the Northwest.
Excited about this project which in short will be open to the public, Jorge reflects on the future of his terroir, which “is still untouched, but not for long”.
It was about three in the afternoon when we said our goodbyes to set off on our trip back to Salta along the Escoipe ravine. The sunny siesta did nothing but to stress a deep nostalgia for Cachi.
To Take into Account
Timetable: open at noon and in the evening.
Recommendations: it would be appropriate to have enough time to have lunch and go round the place, try the peppers and have a chat with the owners. |
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Contact:
El Aujero Ruíz de los Llanos s/n (4417) Cachi - Salta Tel: +54 (3868) 15-638036 |
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