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During the months of January and February, Gualeguaychú dresses up to offer one of the most expected shows in the area: the Carnaval del País. See the backstage movement of the most important comparsas.
We wanted to see the “kitchen” of carnival and in that way learn how a comparsa gets ready to show the splendor of its costumes, the rhythm of its choreography, and allusive topics. With this in our minds, we decided that there was no better place to visit than Gualeguaychú, and thus witness the Carnaval del País. |
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From the Retiro bus station –Autonomous City of Buenos Aires– we took a non-stop “express” to that city in Entre Ríos. As the bus was riding through the littoral scenery, we could see the fields of citrus fruit and the agro-cattle facilities that looked like small black dots lost in the light green immensity of the plains.
Our eagerness to arrive started to emerge from the moment we set off. We knew what was ahead: one of the most expected shows in the area. We went along the two hundred and forty kilometers that separate the city of Buenos Aires from Gualeguaychú in exactly three hours. “Batucadas”, Rhythm and Fancy Costumes When we entered the city, we were welcome by a “batucada” that saluted tourists getting off buses at the local bus station. The smell of carnival was perceived in the air. Gualeguaychú is one of those places to visit in a few days, ideal as a getaway from routine. It has a complete hotel and gastronomic infrastructure that turns the city into a classical destination to experiment mini-tourism. |
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We left our baggage at the hotel, and immediately we went to visit the different workshops where the comparsas were made up. Hundred of enthusiast seamstresses, choreographers, costumers and float makers give their life and soul so that the entity they represent may excel with the utmost splendor during the carnival nights.
The responsibility and dedication of these artists is truly admirable. When we talked to some of them, we learnt that they start to meet ten months before the corsos in order to establish the first parameters of the comparsa, where the chosen topics, the music and the costumes are discussed. This is how we met Teresa, one of the Ará Yeví comparsa seamstresses who, with the typical kindness of people from the provinces, showed us the fancy costumes, hairdressing, props and lots of pheasant, peacock and the so-called Amazonian dyed feathers. “The fancy costumes are the most spectacular elements in the comparsa, for their size and luxury. They are thematically integrated to a certain squad or float”– explains Teresa as she finishes mending the back of a prop. The labor group is supervised by the permanent presence of the people in charge, who control timetables, finished tasks or other issues. |
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Each piece or element undergoes a strict quality control which ranges from testing material resistance in a chassis to controlling the density of the sequins sewed to an apron.
The ritual of carnival starts after 4.30 p.m., when the people in charge of dancing at the “corsódromo” start to arrive in the workshops to make up, do their hair, practise the choreography and, lastly, dress up. The rowdy atmosphere of rehearsals is wonderful. From early hours, visitors can feel how the carnival celebrations “penetrate” the participants’ blood. Carnival The carnival is one of the most traditional popular celebrations in the history of mankind. It has probably originated in pagan rituals to Bacchus, god of wine; in the feasts organized in honor to the Apis ox in Egypt; or in the Roman saturnalias, in honor to the god Saturn, lord of sowing and the harvest. |
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The truth is that, as from 1979, the show of carnival in Gualeguaychú has been performed by a group of entities and, for such reason, the Municipality grants them the concession of the “corsódromo”. Only five out of the ten entities that make up the comission to direct carnival present comparsas: Club Juventud Unida, Club Central Entrerriano, Centro Sirio Libanés, Club de Pescadores and the Tiro Federal de Gualeguaychú.
Once everything was settled, we went with the different squads of the comparsa towards the “corsódromo”, where the last touching-up is made for what will be a whole day of singing, dancing, skill and sensuality. At 10.00 p.m. the splendid parade began. The infection of joy, the brightness of the costumes and the energy of the participants dazzled the audience. We enjoyed the whole show. With the passing of each comparsa we let ourselves be wrapped in the rhythm of their songs and, dancing along with them, we became part of the party. |
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The staging is pompous: dancers of all ages dressed up in costumes that incite the audience to the ovation, the applause and screams of joy.
The celebration of carnival is in march and, with it, the inseparable connection between body and soul, where the dancing bodies, unbridled and pagan, get ready for Lent, before the Holy Week. To Take into Account: How to Get to Gualeguaychú: You can access Gualeguaychú from different places in the country using National Routes 12, 14 and 136. From Uruguay, through the Libertador San Martin International Bridge, which connects this city with Fray Bentos, in the neighboring country. From the Retiro bus terminal, Autonomous City of Buenos Aires, Flecha Bus, Nuevo Expreso and Ciudad de Gualeguay buses leave daily once every one hour and a half, and they take about three hours, approximately, to reach final destination. We recommend you buy the ticket in advance, especially during the carnival season. People interested in witnessing the Carnaval del País on Saturdays during January, February and the first week of March may obtain information about the reserve and acquisition of locations in the following sites: Tiro Federal Gualeguaychú Te.: 54 3446 422672 Cell Phone: 54 3446 15632987 Address: Boulevard de León 100 Timetable: from 10 a.m. to 1 p. m. and from 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. Club Central Entrerriano Te.: 54 3446 427913 Address: España 283 Timetable: de 10 a 12 y de 17 a 21. Person in charge: Mr. Sebastián Broggi Club de Pescadores Gualeguaychú Te.: 54 3446 426564 Address: Costanera Sur s/n Person in charge: Osvaldo Otero Centro Sirio Libanés Te.: 54 3446 432845 / 427066 Address: Irigoyen 64 Person in charge: Marcela Faiad Club Juventud Unida Te.: 54 3446 436930 Cell Phone: 54 3446 15635023 / 15573573 Address: 25 de Mayo and Perón Timetable: from 9 a.m. to 12.30 p.m. and from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Reservations for the VIP sector Te.: 54 3446 428260 Address: Maestra Piccini and Maipú Reservations for viewpoints in terraces Te.: 54 3446 436228 Notice: Tickets are acquired directly at the “corsódromo”. We recommend reserving your locations in advance |
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See also: Hotels and accommodation in Gualeguaychú |
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