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  Verónica Martínez |
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| Outside the Chascomús historical quarters, other spots of the tourist circuits were awaiting to be discovered by travelers eager to know a little bit more about this charming city. |
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When we heard about the existence of the Chascomús Chapel of the Black, a certain mythical connotation invaded our thoughts. We had already visited the Cathedral, located opposite the Independencia Square, but we wanted to learn more about the ways of religious expressions of the African community which, having settled in the Chascomús lands as from the XVIII century, contributed with the rhythm of their candombe.
The present location of the Chapel of the Black is not its original location as, in the beginning, the African would meet at the neighborhood today known as Del Tambor, next to the historical quarters. It was in 1861 that the Municipality granted them the lot where it stands at present. Entering this sanctuary, one cannot feel indifference. A space for praying which still keeps its floor of baked clay: the walls hardly show its original white color, as they are covered by various images of saints, photos, rosaries and flowers that the parishioners have deposited there with the passing of time. In the inside, surprisingly enough, adoration icons of the black community co-exist with the presence of other saints, such as Saint Cajetan, figures of Gauchito Gil surrounded by candles, posters of the Sacred Heart of Jesus and even a reproduction of the portrait of General José de San Martín. A few pews are enough for the faithful, as curiously enough mass is not celebrated in this temple –declared National Historical Monument in 1962. Nevertheless, many locals have confessed that they preferred to say their prayers there because of the reigning air of peace and tranquility, though they do not belong to the black community. |
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After observing every detail of this place, both cozy and popular, we had the chance to meet one of the last members of the collectivity. Antonio Luis is the caretaker of the Chapel of the Black. Gentile, though shy, in the middle of the garden that surrounds the sanctuary he tells us that he has been in charge of the church ever since his mother died.
Other Sites to Visit After such a particular visit to the Chapel of the Black, we went towards the waterfront, where we met one of Chascomús characters: we could define Tony as the “official pop-corn man” as he is the only one who prepares incredible cotton candy in front of the lagoon every weekend. A brief chat with him revealed us his life choice to stay in this lagoon spot and enabled us to prove the general serenity present in the city. Afterwards, we strolled about the Libres del Sur park, a large eight-hectare terrain close to the waterfront –located in Lastra and Muñiz– which evokes the heroic deed dating from 1839, by a group of rebels against the policy of Juan Manuel de Rosas. Once again, history crossed our path and we learnt that the Battle of Chascomús ended with a federal victory in the hands of Prudencio Rosas, brother of the Restaurador, and that the success, quite paradoxically, was celebrated in the house of their opponent, Vicente Casco, as it used to be the most important house in town in those days. Within that park crowded with pines, eucalyptus, algarrobos, oaks, floss silk trees and ombúes is the Museo Pampeano, created on the centennial anniversary of the above mentioned battle, in 1939. The building, of pure white lines, reviews the various facts of life in Chascomús along its seven rooms, from the Indians, primitive dwellers of these pampas to the recent uses and customs of its inhabitants. |
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Another local attraction is the replica of the San Juan Bautista fort, which gave origin to Chascomús. The characteristics of the ancient frontier small forts are recreated there.
The last stop of our tour around the lagoon would be at the Camino de Circunvalación. Behind a cattle gate, a path covered by a leafy grove and an old house from the XVIII century were awaiting. After intense remodelling works, La Alameda, such is the name of this ancient estancia, became an excellent spot to enjoy a pleasant country day. To Take into Account Capilla de los Negros Address: Lamadrid and Venezuela. San Juan Bautista Fort Address: Av. Costanera and González Chávez. Museo Pampeano Address: Av. Lastra and Muñiz. Te: 54 2241 430982 Timetable: Tuesday thru Friday from 8am to 2pm. Monday closed. Saturdays, Sundays and holidays from 10am to 2pm and from 5am to 7pm. Complejo La Alameda Address: Camino de Circunvalación km. 12.5 (7130) Chascomús. Buenos Aires. Republic of Argentina. |
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See also: Hotels in Chascomús and other accommodation venues |
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